New York: Cooper Hewitt
–Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse. Offering creative,
alternative approaches to confronting textile waste, Scraps: Fashion, Textiles,
and Creative Reuse exhibition on at Cooper Hewitt until April 16, presents the
work of three designers who put sustainability at the heart of the design
process: Luisa Cevese, founder of Riedzioni in Milan; Christina Kim, founder of
dosa, inc., in Los Angeles; and Reiko Sudo, managing director at Nuno in Tokyo.
Each designer’s practice involves innovative and sophisticated reuse of textile
materials and resources, while engaging in preservation of local craft
traditions. And, they find it both aesthetically and financially worthwhile to
recycle while striving to sustain traditional textile practices and skills in a
modern world. The exhibition explores key facets of sustainability,
such as the efficient use of materials and resources, the preservation of local
craft traditions and the integration of new technologies in the recycling
process.
Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and
Creative Reuse
Christina Kim
Christina Kim, founder of the
Los Angeles-based fashion brand dosa
inc. has deep respect for India’s hand weavers, which inspired her to
develop a design process for using up scraps over several fashion seasons.
Choga and
slip - dosa inc. – 2003
hand-spun,
hand-woven brocaded cotton - jamdani saris, cut and sewn
1st
generation garment: rabary jacket - dosa
inc.– 2003
hand-spun,
hand-woven brocaded cotton jamdani scraps, cut and sewn
Christina Kim
2nd generation garment: Eungie
skirt – dosa inc. – 2007
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded
cotton jamdani scraps, pieced, reverse-appliqued, embroidered, cut and sewn
Christina Kim
2nd generation garment: Eungie
skirt – dosa inc. – 2007
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded
cotton jamdani scraps, pieced, reverse-appliqued, embroidered, cut and sewn
photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt
Christina Kim
Infographic Panel, Reinvesting in
Handwork: Jamdani - 2015
designed by Christina Kim and Ann
Sunwoo
Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and
Creative Reuse
Luisa Cevese
Luisa Cevese, founder of
Riedzioni in Milan is attracted to the beautiful silk selvedges that are
castoffs from industrial silk manufacturing and turns them into coveted fashion
accessories.
Bag Small Shaving - Luisa Cevese
Riedizioni - 2012
gilded washi paper, silk,
polyurethane.
Bag, Little Box - Luisa Cevese
Riedizioni - 2014, textile since 1997 polyurethane embedded with polyester and
polyamide metallic threads
Metallic Thread Waste – The Lurex
Company Limited
Metallic
brocaded silks Selvedges - manufactured by Hosoo Co. Ltd.
Luisa Cevese
Gilded Washi Wefts - Hosoo Company
Ltd - 2015
gilded washi paper
Placemat - Luisa Cevese Riedizioni - textile since 2012
gilded washi paper, polyurethane
Luisa Cevese
Textile Panel - Luisa Cevese
Riedizioni - since 2009
Multicolor Taj - scraps of
second-hand saris (mixed fibers), polyurethane
photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt
Luisa Cevese
Infographic Panel, Reimagining
Industrial Waste: Scraps + Polyurethane
designed by Ann Sunwoo
Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and
Creative Reuse
Reiko Sudo
Reiko Sudo’s, managing
director at Nuno in Tokyo, deep exploration of traditional silk production in
Japan led to transforming silk waste into textiles with greater creative
relevance.
Bundle of ogarami choshi – Nuno
Corportation – 2016
Silk
Ogarami choshi sheets - Nuno
Corportation – 2016
Silk
Reiko Sudo
Assorted yarns and fabrics
Kibiso Yarns
Kibiso Stripe – 2008 - Futsu
Crisscross -2008 Suzushi Stripe - 2009
Nuno Corportation and
Tsuruoka Fabric Industry Cooperative
Kibiso is the coarse
layer of silk cocoon, which is normally removed to expose the fine silk
filament below. Sudo has been working with the Japanese silk industry to
upcycle this undervalued material into a fiber suitable for luxury goods.
Reiko Sudo
Kibiso bundles - Nuno Corporation -
2015
Waraji (sandals) - woven by Shonai
Tagawa JA Fujishima Branch- 2010 hand-woven kibiso
photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt
Reiko Sudo
Infographic Panel, Reconsidering Materials:
Kibiso and Ogarami Choshi 2015
designed by Reiko Sudo and Ann
Sunwoo - manufactured by Nuno Corporation
Darning Sampler - (Netherlands) –
1723
Silk embroidery – Linen foundation
darned and embroidered
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